Martine Rose's Subversive Sartorial Spectacle Captivates Milan

Martine Rose, the British menswear designer, has made a bold statement by debuting her label on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. Eschewing the polished aesthetic often associated with the Italian fashion capital, Rose has brought a taste of North London's gritty charm to the catwalk, challenging traditional concepts of masculinity and classic codes of tailoring.

Redefining Masculinity and Tailoring Through Subversion and Creativity

Embracing the Unconventional

Martine Rose's shows have long been known for their subversive approach, and her debut in Milan was no exception. The setting was a far cry from the typical polish of the Italian fashion scene, with flyers strewn across the floor, metal barriers covered in recycled plastic, and a sporadic assembly of plastic chairs arranged in a dimly-lit arts space. This intentional "mess" was a deliberate choice by Rose, who wanted to create an environment that was not instantly recognizable, but rather one that invited guests to discover the beauty within.

Challenging Gender Norms and Tailoring Conventions

Rose's Spring-Summer 2025 collection continued her exploration of traditional masculinity and classic tailoring codes. Dedicated to "expressions of beauty spawned from the likes of disturbance, humour, and sex," the collection featured a range of unconventional garments, including whipstitched T-shirts worn with tartan shorts and fishnet socks, as well as a "party shirt" adorned with the headshots of Rose's studio team and their families. The tailoring was also taken out of proportion, with nipped-in waists and broad-shouldered blazers paired with leather pants featuring front zips "for easy access."

Embracing the "Local Hero"

In a further twist, Rose administered prosthetic noses to every model, each of whom had been street cast in Milan. This reemphasized the importance of the "local hero," a phrase that appeared as logos on baseball caps and silk ties. This approach reflects Rose's desire to celebrate the diversity and individuality of her community, rather than relying on traditional fashion industry tropes.

Milan's Slow Reveal and the Challenges Facing London

Rose's decision to show her collection in Milan this season, rather than in London, is a significant one. While Milan's austere architecture famously conceals its hidden gardens and warm hospitality, Rose's confronting setting and external attitude are portals to a creative conversation that has community at its heart. As Rose notes, "it reveals itself slowly," much like her own brand.The move to Milan also deals a blow to the British Fashion Council's (BFC) menswear schedule, which has seen a number of key brands, including JW Anderson, A-Cold-Wall, and Wales Bonner, depart for other fashion weeks over the last six years. Rose expressed her frustration with the lack of investment and support for the creative sector in the UK, stating that "every other European city seems to take [creativity] seriously and that makes me sad." She also cited the impact of Brexit, which she believes has been "a disaster for all of the creative sector."Despite the challenges facing the UK fashion industry, Rose's subversive and community-driven approach has continued to captivate audiences, both in London and now in Milan. Her ability to challenge traditional norms and push the boundaries of menswear has solidified her status as one of the most sought-after and influential designers of her generation.